DIY Unitard belly dance class wear (Part 1: Pattern making)

DIY Unitard belly dance practice outfit - free pattern

Let’s start the new year with an exciting unitard style practice outfit, perfect for dance lessons!

This outfit consists of this fun one-piece unitard with flared legs, a pretty lace wrap top and a matching overskirt. I’m really excited about how it’s looking! 😀

In the next 4 videos, I’ll show you how to make this entire outfit. We’ll start with the unitard today. Let’s get started!

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To make this DIY unitard belly dance practice outfit, you’ll need:

  • Pattern paper – this can be any paper, like craft paper or leftover wrapping paper. (How much paper?)
  • A tanktop to use as a pattern
  • A pair of well-fitting leggings to use as a pattern – if you don’t have leggings, you can use any fitted pants
  • Stretch fabric – Use 4-way stretch fabric for this project. You need about 2m or 2 yards.
  • 2.5cm (1in) wide elastic – About 1m (1yd) should be enough.
  • Matching color thread

How to Make DIY Unitard belly dance class wear

Preparation

First, put on your tanktop and leggings, and fold over the waistband of the leggings so the top edge is at your belt line. This is where you’d wear your belly dance hip scarf or belt. Mark the fold line at the center front and center back with safety pins.

Then straighten your tanktop and see where the bottom edge of the tanktop is in relation to the top edge of the leggings. If they overlap, mark the top of the leggings on the tanktop at the center front with a safety pin. If they don’t, measure the distance between the bottom end of the tank top and the top of the legging at the center front. Make a note of the measurement.

Also, measure from your belt line to the floor.

And finally, mark your underbust line with a safety pin on the front. 

Also, while you’re wearing your tank top and leggings, make a note of how fitted and how comfortable they are. If they feel too tight or loose, we can adjust the fit for the unitard in the next section.

Alright, let’s move on!

Make your unitard pattern

Take your pattern paper, and fold about 15cm (6in) to the back side.

Then take your leggings and turn them wrong side out. And put one of the legs inside the other, so you can see the seams very well.

Now the crotch seam should look like this. The deeper side is the back side, and the shallower side is the front. Place it on the pattern paper front side down, and place the straight edge of the leggings against the fold of the paper.

DIY unitard pattern making

Next, fold the top of the leggings at the belt line safety pin, and trace the front side of the leggings. When using leggings, I find some leggings are very tight around the hips and thighs. If that’s the case, you can add 1-2cm (3/8 – 3/4 in) or so as you trace. If your pants are loose, you can draw the line a little bit on the inside to make the legs more fitted.

Once you get to the knee area, stop. Mark the hem of the legs, and remove your leggings. 

At this point, compare the length to your belt line to floor measurement. They should be more or less the same. If you want your flared pants to be extra long, add length at this point.

From the knee area, draw a straight line down. Extend the hem line.

On the hem line, measure 10cm (4in) from the straight line. Then connect this point to the knee point. 

DIY unitard dance practice wear

Measure the length from the knee point to the hem line, and measure the same distance on this diagonal line. Keep measuring and making marks until you reach the straight line. 

Connect the dots, and smooth out the lines at the knee area. 

Now open up the fold of the paper, and make a mark at the same knee height on the fold. 

Flared leg unitard pattern

Extend the hem line to the other side, and repeat the process. Mark a 10cm (4in) point on the line, and connect to the knee point. Measure the distance between the knee and hem, and measure the same distance from the diagonal line. Connect dots and smooth out the knee area.

So you just created extra room to the bottom half of the legs so you get flared legs. If you want a legging style, simply trace your leggings.

Cut along the outer lines, and you have the front side of the pants. 

Repeat the process for the back side by placing the back side of the leggings on the paper. Make sure the length at the fold matches with that of the front panel, because these sides get sewn together.

DIY bodysuit dance lesson outfit

On the back side, add a 2.5cm (1in) seam allowance above the waistband line.

Make the knee point at the same place as the front, and match the hem line, and draw the rest.

And the pants section is complete. By the way, I love this pattern because it’s so versatile. I marked the belt line, because I wanted to be able to use this pattern to make yoga pants. All you need to do is add a waistband!

The most versatile DIY Belly Dance Unitard

Next, fold your paper, and fold your tank top in half lengthwise. 

Place your tank top on the paper, and match up the folds. Now, if your tank top is not very fitted, move the fold of the tank top a little by a couple of cm to make a more fitted top.

And trace the front side of the tank top all the way to the safety pin indicating the waistband of the leggings, or if your tank top and leggings didn’t overlap, measure the distance you measured between the tank top edge and belt line. And draw a horizontal line there.

Learn to make a pattern with a tank top and leggings.

Then fold up the tank top at the safety pin indicating the underbust line. Mark where this line and side seam meet. 

From there, measure down 2cm (3/4in) and make a mark.

Making the top pattern for DIY unitard

And at the bottom, measure 2cm (3/4in) up from the bottom line, and draw a horizontal line there.

Now on your front pant pattern, measure the length of the top edge. And measure this length from the fold on the new horizontal line you just drew. 

Now connect these 2 points with a nice curved line. You can make it narrow or wide, it’s up to you. Mine is about 7.5cm (3in) wide at the narrowest point.

Cut along these lines, and your top pattern is complete! I’m going to skip making the back pattern here, and I’ll show you how you can use this pattern to make the back side.

Making a side cut out unitard is easy!

Cut fabric

Alright, once you make the pattern, the rest is easy. First, let’s cut out the legs. I’ve folded the fabric right sides together here, making sure the stretchier direction is perpendicular to the fold. 

Place your front and back panels. For the front panel, simply cut out while adding a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. At the hem, add a 2cm (3/4in) seam allowance.

For the back panel, don’t add any seam allowance at the top edge. Then add a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance at sides, and 2cm (3/4in) at the hem.

Making a flare leg unitard for dance

I’ve folded the fabric here to save time, but if your fabric is too slippery, just cut out one layer at a time. If you cut one layer at a time, then make sure to flip your pattern so you have a right side and left side of each panel, not 2 of the same side.

Place your top pattern, and cut while adding a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance all around. This is your front panel.

working with lycra fabric for making a unitard

Then fold your pattern here where the curved line starts. And place the pattern on your fabric. Take a fabric marker, and connect the top corners of the shoulder seams. Measure about 5cm (2in) down from there at the center, and connect it to the shoulder seam with a nice curved line. 

Then cut while adding a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance, and add a 2.5cm (1in) seam allowance at the bottom edge. This is your back panel! 

Also, cut out 3 long strips that are 2.5cm (1in) wide. Use the entire width of your fabric.

Alright, all the pieces are ready to be assembled into a unitard! 

DIY unitard belly dance practice outfit

In the next video, I’ll show you how to sew all the pieces together and finish the unitard. How exciting! Make sure to sign up for my newsletter below so you won’t miss it.

Click here to sign up for the newsletter so you won’t miss Part 2! (+ BONUS: get access to the Belly Dance Costume Making 101 email course!)

And if you want more practice pants, have a look at this Jamila Flare Pants premium course!

In this course, you can create a custom pants pattern, completely based on your measurements! You will never have to worry about tripping over your pants again 😉

Plus, there are 3 designs to choose from, so it’s a perfect course if you want to expand your practice outfit wardrobe!

Click here to learn more about the Jamila Flare Pants course!

Hope you liked this pattern making section of the unitard belly dance class wear tutorial, and if you did, please share this tutorial with your dancer friends! It’ll be so fun to show up in stylish matching outfits at your next lesson!

Thanks for reading, and keep sparkling!

P.S. Pin this image on your practice outfit board 😉

DIY Unitard belly dance practice outfit part 1 - free pattern

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