Add a touch of mystery with this hooded kaftan dress—perfect for slipping on before a show or making a dramatic entrance on stage.

Today I’m excited to show you how to sew this Kaftan dress step by step. It’s so easy to make with no pattern needed. Let’s get started!

Download my Hood Pattern from HERE!

To make this hooded Kaftan dress, you need these materials:

• Lightweight fabric – I’m using chiffon here. About 3.5m (3.8yd). (3m for the dress and 0.5m for the hood)
• Hood pattern – you can download my hood pattern from here!
• Matching color thread
• 5 sets of bra hooks and eyes

How to Make a Hooded Kaftan Dress Cover-up

Step 1. Take measurements

First, take a measurement of your chest at the fullest point.

Also, fold your fabric in half right sides together, hold it up, and stand in front of a mirror. Hold the fold against the top of your shoulders and adjust the fold until the bottom edge of the front layer touches the floor.

Then switch your hands around carefully, and place the folded fabric on a flat surface like this, so that the longer layer is the top layer.

Step 2. Draw & Cut Your Kaftan Dress Design

So you have your fabric folded like this. Now fold the fabric again in half lengthwise.

And at this point, line up the corners of the short layers and other edges neatly.

Now, take a fabric marker, and from the corner here, measure 10cm (4in) and make a mark on the fold. 

From the same corner, measure 2.5cm (1in) down and make a mark.

Connect these marks with a curved line. Make it flat as it gets closer towards this fold, so you get a nice, smoothly shaped neckline. 

Next, measure 22cm (8 3/4in) from the corner at the top, and mark it on the fold. 

From here, measure your chest circumference and divide it by 4, then add 2cm (3/4 in) and make a mark.

From this end of the fold, measure 50cm (20in) down and make a mark on the edge.

Connect these 2 points like this. This will create a flared sleeve.

Next, connect this point to the bottom corner of the short layer. 

Now, from this mark you made earlier on the fold, measure down to the bottom of the top layer. 

Measure the same length on this line you just drew, from the top end. And make a mark on the line.

Pivot your measuring tape, and mark the same measurement from the top end of this line. Pivot again and mark the same length. Continue until you reach the bottom of this top layer.

Connect the dots smoothly. This way, you can make sure the side seams won’t drag on the floor.

At the top of this side seam line, smooth out the corner like this.

Now, cut along all these lines, all layers together.

And cut just 1 layer along the fold all the way to the neckline like this. This will be the front opening.

At the neckline, measure 17.5cm (7in) down and make a mark on the fold. 

Connect this mark to the neckline smoothly like this. 

Now, cut just the top layer along this line to shape the front neckline. Flip the dress and shape the other side the same way. And your dress panel is ready!

Step 3. Cut Your Hood Panels

Next, we’re going to cut 2 panels for the hood. You can get my free oversized hood pattern from here! 

Fold the leftover fabric in half, right sides together, and simply place the pattern on top. Add a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance around the curved edges, and a 2.5cm (1in) seam allowance along the straight edge. And cut out the panels. 

My pattern is made larger than your typical hoodie, because I think a larger one looks cuter on a Kaftan dress, and gives more coverage over your head.

Step 4. Sew Your Hooded Kaftan Dress!

Alright, let’s assemble the dress! First, finish all the raw edges of the dress panel. Since I’m using chiffon, I did a narrow rolled hem for all the edges. You can use a narrow hem foot or zigzag stitch on a sewing machine or do a rolled hem on a serger.

Then place the dress panel right sides together, and do a straight stitch from the ends of the sleeves to the sides, all the way to the hem of the dress. Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance.

For the hood, finish all the raw edges, and place the hood panels right sides together. And do a straight stitch with a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance along the curved edge.

It’s nice to press the seam open here, so your finished hood will sit nicely on your head. If you have a tailor’s ham like this, use it on the curved area. 

And along this long edge, fold 2.5cm (1in) from the edge towards the wrong side, and give it a good press.

And do a straight stitch right along the finished edge. 

Now, find the center point of the back side of the neckline by folding the dress in half and mark it with a pin.

Place the hood on the dress right sides together, and match the seam and the pin. Align the rest of the edges and place pins or clips.

There are no marks indicating where the ends of the hood should end up, so be careful not to stretch the edges, and when you look at it from the front, make sure the hood looks symmetrical.

You can also measure from these corners to make sure the ends are positioned at the same distances from there.

And do a straight stitch with a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. 

And for the rest of the front neckline, fold 1cm (3/8in) from the edges towards the wrong side, and do a straight stitch. You can do the same for the front opening if you like, but I chose to leave it as it is.

Step 5. Add Hooks

Now starting from the bottom of the front neckline, mark 5 points every 10cm (4in) along the edges of the front opening on both sides. Take your hand sewing needles, and sew on bra hooks and eyes on the wrong side at every point you marked.

Give a millimeter between the hooks and eyes and the edges of the fabric. This way, when you close the front, there will be no gap in the middle.

And your hooded Kaftan dress is complete! It’s simple, elegant, and full of dramatic flair. Perfect as a cover-up or a cool prop. And of course, feel free to decorate it if you like!

And if you’re interested in making the dress I’m wearing inside the Kaftan dress, check out Sparkly Belly’s All-Access Membership. 

With All-Access Membership, you get instant access to all my courses, 19 and counting, with over 32 designs, including many dress designs! Customize each piece to your unique measurements and budget, and create the perfect, professional outfits for your style. 

Curious? Learn more here!

So have fun wowing your audience with a mysterious entrance in your own hooded kaftan dress! 

And if you liked this video, you might also enjoy my other kaftan dress coverup tutorial with pockets and butterfly sleeves. 

Thanks for reading, and keep sparkling!

P.S. Pin this image on your costume accessories idea board!

Like what you read? Want to make more costuming bits yourself?

Learn more and sign up for my free email course, Belly Dance Costume Making 101