How to Design a Belly Dance Skirt (Start to Finish)

This skirt might look complicated, but the way I design it is actually very simple.

Design a belly dance skirt like this one in black with lace and an intricate high-waisted midriff with cutouts.

From the first sketch to choosing materials and placing every detail—there’s a simple process behind it. 

In this video, I’ll walk you through exactly how I design a professional belly dance skirt from start to finish, using a real skirt I designed recently.

So you can start applying these ideas right away 🙂 Let’s get started!

How I Design a Belly Dance Skirt

1. Sketch

It all starts with the design.

For every project, I begin with sketching. For this one, I knew I wanted a high-waisted mermaid silhouette with cutouts—something a few of you have been asking for.

design a bell dance skirt by first sketching out the design idea.

So I started by looking at existing designs and sketching what I saw.

Design a belly dance skirt by first sketching existing designs

And I’m not trying to copy them here—I’m studying them.

By drawing them out, I start to notice things like where the seams are, how the slits are placed, what the base shape looks like underneath all the decorations, and how everything might be constructed.

Design a belly dance skirt by sketching your design ideas and adding in the decorations

Once I have those ideas, I start sketching my own versions.

I like to begin with a clean base, and then explore variations from there.

Start with a clean base skirt design when you design a belly dance skirt

That way, you can create different looks using the same pattern, which many of my students like to do.

For this design, I wanted a strong, balanced hourglass silhouette, with cutouts in the front, sides, and back, plus slits and godets for movement.

Then I start thinking about colors, textures, and materials.

Think about colors, textures, and materials when sketching your designs for a belly dance skirt

As I mentioned in my last tutorial, layering textures adds depth and richness.

So here, I planned things like textured fabrics—sequins, velvet—and layering appliqués, straps, and rhinestones. The hip area is where a lot of movement happens in belly dancing, so I like to add layers of textures around here.

Make sure you focus on the hip area where most movement is when you design a belly dance skirt

I also planned a variation using the same base, but with different materials—like black lycra and stretch lace—just to show how much the look can change.

I even think about things like color contrast—because details won’t stand out if they blend in too much, especially on stage or on camera. So I decided these appliques are going to be gold against a black skirt.

Once I have all of this mapped out, I make notes and use them as a guide when choosing materials.

Make notes along the side of your sketches when you design a belly design skirt

So now, let’s see how this design came to life.

2. Placement Decisions

Once I had the design planned out, I turned it into a base skirt.

And now comes my favorite part—bringing the design to life with details.

Putting the skirt base and highwaisted band together

Before I start attaching anything, I always plan out where the details will go.

Plan out your design by placing your appliques where you may want them to go,

I usually focus on key areas like the waistband, hips, or slit—again because that’s where a lot of action happens in belly dancing. 

I’m using a dress form here, but you can also do this flat on a table—it really depends on how clear your design is at this point.

Pin all appliques to the belly dance skirt

And I actually spend quite a bit of time on this step, because even small changes in placement can make a big difference in how polished the final result looks.

Focus your appliques and placements to the hips when you design your belly dance skirt

3. Building Layers

Then I start building in layers.

Build your design for a belly dance skirt by layering textures.

I usually begin with larger elements first, like appliques and large stones, and then add smaller details to support them.

Use a cardboard form to stretch the fabric when applying rhinestones.

This helps the design feel more balanced in all directions, instead of random or too much in one area.

Make sure there are gaps between appliques. Appliques are not stretchy like the fabric, but if you sew them on continuously, the fabric will lose its stretch. So make sure there is a little space in between appliques, and if you’re worried about it, you can stretch the fabric first with a piece of cardboard or dress form, then apply your embellishment.

Here, I like to listen to some music and enjoy the process of bringing my ideas to life.

Adding in rhinestones to design your belly dance skirt

4.  Finishing Touches

One thing that really makes a skirt look more professional is knowing when to stop.

If I add too much, it can start to look messy or heavy, so I step back and edit as I go.

Avoid looking heavy or messy with your placement of appliques and rhinestone

This part really comes down to your personal preference and vision.

But a simple way to check is to try it on and look at it in the mirror.

If something feels off, you can always add a little more or take something away.

Adding in glue on rhinestones on this black mermaid skirt with appliques around the waist.

And once everything comes together…this is the final result (drum roll).

5. Final Result

You can see how the placement, layering, and textures all come together to create a much more polished, sophisticated look.

I also created another version using the same design idea… but with a slightly different base, and different colors and textures. And you can see how just those changes create a completely different feel.

And this is the part I love most – taking one idea and turning it into different designs that still feel cohesive.

Warda Mermaid Skirts in black lace with gold embellishments and red with red embellishments

Want to make these skirts?

And if you want to learn how to create skirts like these from start to finish— not just the design, but also how to draft a base that fits your body perfectly, and how to create details like these trendy cutouts, slits, and godets, so everything works together…

I walk you through the full process step by step inside my brand new course, Warda Mermaid Skirts Premium Course, and it’s designed to be beginner-friendly, even if this feels a bit advanced right now.

Warda Mermaid Skirts Premium Course

I’ll also show you how to create variations like this using the same base pattern, so you’re not just making one skirt. You can keep customizing and designing your own!

Side views of both the black lace and the red Wada mermaid skirts

It’s launching tomorrow. So if you’re interested, make sure to check the link below so you don’t miss it.

Learn more about the Warda Mermaid Skirts here!

I hope this gave you some ideas for designing your own skirts and bringing your designs to life!

If you want to add even more sparkle, watch this tutorial next, where I show you how to rhinestone dance costumes step-by-step.

Thanks for reading, and keep sparkling!

P.S. Pin this on your costuming idea board!

Like what you read? Want to make more costuming bits yourself?

Belly dance costume making 101 course graphic

Learn more and sign up for my free email course, Belly Dance Costume Making 101

What do you think?

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.